Table of Contents

1. Key Highlights:
2. Introduction
3. Skirts Reclaim the Spotlight: silhouettes retailers will stock
4. Femininity Reworked: lingerie details, waist definition and the “dressed and slightly undressed” aesthetic
5. Color, Embellishment and Texture: a lively palette replaces restraint
6. Accessories and the Collector’s Wardrobe: small-ticket impact, big stylistic effect
7. Which Shows Mattered — and why they moved buyers
8. Retail Strategy and Buying Signals: budgets, delivery and selectivity
9. What Probably Won’t Translate: runway excess versus retail reality
10. Emerging Talent and Designers to Watch
11. Commercial Implications for Designers and Brands
12. How Consumers Will Shop the Season: personalization over uniformity
13. Long-term Signals: is quiet luxury over?
14. Recommending a Merchandising Playbook for SS27
15. FAQ

Key Highlights:

• Skirts emerged as the season’s dominant commercial item — midi, asymmetric and novelty-fabric styles are driving buyer investment and merchandising strategies.
• Buyers signaled a decisive move away from quiet, uniform luxury toward expressive, personalized dressing: color, lingerie details, waist definition and statement accessories lead the way.
• Budgets are rising selectively: retailers will concentrate spend on brands with clear DNA, standout sell-through pieces and accessories that allow customers to update wardrobes without a full reset.

Introduction

Paris confirmed a decisive pivot. Designers answered a hunger for desirability with clothes that feel both celebratory and wearable: skirts of every cut returned to center stage; lingerie elements and exposed waists threaded through collections; color and ornament reclaimed runway real estate. Retail buyers — the people who translate runway moments into shop floors and e-commerce assortments — reacted not by buying everything, but by sharpening focus. They will fund collections that tell a coherent story, offer standout product, and fit into what many referred to as a “collector’s wardrobe”: individual pieces customers can mix, personalize and keep.

The season’s signals were consistent across major luxury and contemporary buyers. Saint Laurent’s spectacle and Chanel’s continuing authority anchored discussions, while newer names such as August Barron and Matières Fécales injected theatricality and fresh youth appeal. The commercial message is pragmatic: fashion must create desire and be shop-ready. That combination is reshaping buying plans, merchandising priorities and the kinds of product that will populate stores and closets next year.

Skirts Reclaim the Spotlight: silhouettes retailers will stock

Skirts were the most cited category across buyer interviews, and for good reason: they translate runway appetite into multiple price points, offer high styling flexibility, and provide a visible, immediate way for consumers to refresh wardrobes.

Silhouettes running through Paris ranged from short and flirtatious minis to fluid midis and sweeping maxis; asymmetry and movement were recurring motifs. Buyers singled out midi skirts with a bias for fluid fabrics that catch light and motion — ideal for both day and evening — and novelty treatments such as embroidery, metallics and jacquard that read as occasion-ready without demanding a full dress purchase.

Why this matters commercially

• Skirts are easier to merchandise as separates than dresses, enabling retailers to mix with existing tops, knitwear and outerwear. A statement skirt can carry the outfit and elevate low-cost basics.
• They create multiple entry points across price tiers: a silk midi can live alongside a cotton voile version or a leather mini, expanding accessibility.
• Skirts respond quickly to seasonal buying windows; they can be produced in varied fabrications to match different delivery timelines.

Real-world merchandising examples

• A luxury department store could pair a novelty-fabric skirt (window piece) with a tonal knit and a statement belt, presenting a complete "collector" look that invites accessory add-ons.
• Digital-first retailers might launch a "skirt edit" with shoppable video showing the same skirt styled with sneakers, sandals and pumps to demonstrate versatility, increasing cross-sell rates.

Buyers’ convictions The majority of interviewed buyers — from Harrods and Bergdorf Goodman to Net-a-Porter and Neiman Marcus — committed to deeper buys across skirt silhouettes. Several emphasized leather and suede versions for outerwear-adjacent dressing, while others highlighted sheer and layered skirts as part of the season’s sensual direction.

Femininity Reworked: lingerie details, waist definition and the “dressed and slightly undressed” aesthetic

This season’s femininity leaned toward being both exposed and refined. Designers revisited lingerie codes — bustiers, bandeaux, bra tops and sheer layers — but often anchored them in tailoring or layered looks that read as intentional rather than merely provocative.

Waist definition returned as a structural idea. Belts, ties, peplums and corsetry were used to create silhouette focus points across dresses, suits and outerwear. The waist gave pieces a sense of tailoring and desirability while letting designers play with proportion and sensuousness.

Retail translation and wearability

• Buyers favored interpretations that maintain wearability: structured bustiers layered over shirts, sheer skirts with underlayers, or a subtle corset hidden under a jacket. These treatments allow customers to adopt the look with varying degrees of boldness.
• Retailers stressed the need for product that can live across occasions — work to evening — and cited pieces that strike the balance between sensual detail and everyday function as the most bankable.

Examples from stores and customers

• A luxury multi-brand boutique reported strong interest in bustier-top pairings that can be styled with blazers for daytime or without for evening. These hybrid looks drive higher conversion among clients seeking both novelty and practicality.
• In markets where conservative dressing still prevails, retailers plan to present lingerie-influenced items as layering pieces rather than standalone statements, allowing broader customer adoption.

Buyers’ caution A common caveat: some runway lingerie moments, especially extreme interpretations like exposed bra tops, may be runway-first styling devices with limited mass appeal. Retailers expect to pick the most wearable iterations and temper display imagery to avoid alienating core customers.

Color, Embellishment and Texture: a lively palette replaces restraint

Buyers and designers moved away from muted uniformity: bold color — particularly red, turquoise, saturated blue and yellow — was a recurring visual. Pastels also surfaced, with lilac, lemon and soft purples noted for SS27. Beyond color, texture and embellishment made a comeback: fringe, tassels, embroidery, shells, and beading enriched otherwise simple silhouettes.

Why this shift matters Color is an immediate retail driver. Brighter palettes attract attention in windows and on social feeds, supporting discovery and impulse purchase. Embellishment adds perceived value to pieces, justifying higher price points and helping brands differentiate product.

Commercial tactics

• Departments and e-commerce sites will spotlight ‘color stories’ and ‘embellishment edits’ to create discovery flows. Curated pages that gather turquoise bags, red dresses and shell accessories make it easier for shoppers to act.
• Limited-edition colorways or embellished versions of core best-sellers can stimulate urgency without overcommitting inventory.

Examples of application

• A specialty store might release a capsule of turquoise accessories timed with editorial content showing how to integrate saturated hues into neutral wardrobes.
• Jewelry brands will lean into sea-inspired pieces — shells, colored beads, pearls — marketed as low-friction ways to add personality to any outfit.

Buyer feedback Linda Fargo (Bergdorf Goodman) emphasized color and artisanal material as markers of luxury. Joseph Tang (Holt Renfrew) and others noted an "embroidered, lived-in opulence" that favors texture and unexpected combinations of color and technique.

Accessories and the Collector’s Wardrobe: small-ticket impact, big stylistic effect

Retailers are shifting spend toward accessories: jewelry, belts, scarves, handbags and shoes. These items offer a lower barrier to purchase while delivering immediate personality to outfits, aligning perfectly with the idea of a collector's wardrobe of mix-and-match statement pieces.

Why accessories are strategic now

• Smaller price-point accessories convert hesitant shoppers who want trend engagement without a major spending decision.
• Accessories can salvage or reinvent core inventory by changing perceived outfit narratives. A new belt or necklace can reposition an existing coat, skirt or dress for current trends.
• Margins on accessories often outperform ready-to-wear, making them attractive for selective budget expansion.

Practical merchandising moves

• Layered jewelry displays and “build-your-necklace” features online encourage incremental add-ons.
• Belt bars in store windows that show three ways to cinch a dress or coat help customers visualize wearing options.
• Cross-category editorial: pairing a statement shoe with a new skirt selection or spotlighting a long necklace that transforms a shirt.

Examples from buyer plans Galeries Lafayette and Net-a-Porter explicitly flagged scarves, bandanas and small jewelry as areas of increased buy. Ssense reported heavier investment in jewelry and heels. Neiman Marcus and others plan to back statement shoes and colored bags that function as wardrobe investments.

Which Shows Mattered — and why they moved buyers

A few presentations dominated conversation because they combined theatricality with product that felt commercially desirable.

Saint Laurent

• The show under the Eiffel Tower, with chandeliers and a glittering canopy, crystallized the season’s appetite for occasion and drama. Buyers praised the house’s ability to create emotion and desire — qualities they equate with sell-through potential for special pieces and footwear (Corrado De Biase’s snake shoe buzz underlined this).

Chanel

• Matthieu Blazy’s collection was described repeatedly as a high expression of luxury that remains desirable and wearable. Chanel continues to excel at combining heritage codes with usable silhouettes, making it a perennial buyer favorite.

Dior

• Buyers highlighted Dior’s lighter, romantic silhouettes and dreamlike presentation, viewing the house as offering product that is both modern and commercially sound.

Matières Fécales and August Barron

• Both emerged as breakout names with strong storytelling. Matières Fécales impressed with personal, political and design-forward work, while August Barron combined glamour, pop culture references and theatricality in ways younger clients respond to.

Dries Van Noten and Celine

• Dries was praised for wearable yet expressive styling and color; Celine for urban sophistication. Both brands demonstrated how desirability translates into wardrobe foundations.

Why these shows sold Buyers favored shows that:

• Presented a clear point of view and brand identity.
• Offered multiple product types that could be merchandised across categories.
• Balanced spectacle with believable retail potential — looks customers could see themselves buying.

Retail Strategy and Buying Signals: budgets, delivery and selectivity

Buyers reported budgets were generally up, but spending is targeted. The emphasis is on brands and collections with proven sell-through, clear identity and standout product. Retail strategies revealed several consistent themes.

Selective budget increases

• Shoppers will not be flooded with marginal variations; inventory teams favor concentration of spend where the product tells a strong story. Moda Operandi and others reported budget increases focused on standout collections.

Pullbacks and caution

• Heavy or weather-dependent pieces saw caution. ENG noted hesitancy for weightier items when delivery windows stretch into unpredictable seasons and markets like China may face different weather by the time product lands.
• Retailers are wary of single-season novelties that lack underlying utility or identity.

Timing and logistics

• Several buyers noted delivery windows and production timing affected how and what they ordered. For example, if deliveries fall late into warm-season months, retailers will prioritize lighter fabrics and pieces likely to sell immediately upon arrival.
• The risk of oversupply on trend-driven items — especially those spurred by social platforms — has some buyers limiting exposure to items with viral potential but uncertain longevity.

Regional nuance

• Markets differ. In some regions, buyers will emphasize eveningwear and statement pieces; in others, separable, adaptable styles will dominate. Handbags and footwear continue to be regionally nuanced: certain shapes or materials travel better in specific markets.

Commercial priorities

• Proven DNA and sell-through metrics drive investment. Brands that can demonstrate a customer base and conversion history will obtain more buy.
• Accessories and jewelry receive extra attention as conversion drivers and margin enhancers.

What Probably Won’t Translate: runway excess versus retail reality

Buyers were candid about which runway trends will remain largely theatrical and which will scale.

Likely to underperform at retail

• Bra tops in their extreme runway forms: many buyers noted these were often styling devices designed for runway drama, with limited wider commercial appeal.
• Micro shorts and certain hyper-conceptual pieces that lack day-to-day wearability.
• Trend items largely driven by TikTok moments without deeper brand fit or customer base: retailers at Ssense expressed caution here.

Trends with limited reach

• Heavy fringe or ultra-excessive ruffles may appear in editorials but not achieve broad shelf space outside of niche boutiques.
• Very pronounced 1980s shoulders were not expected to dominate; buyers were looking for novelty that remains easy to wear.

How retailers will handle runway excess

• Selective buy: translate the spirit (fabric, color, or detail) into wearable forms — a sheer overlay instead of a fully transparent dress; a bandeau under a blazer rather than as a standalone.
• Tiered assortments: invest in a handful of statement pieces for visibility while offering toned-down variants that suit a wider customer base.

Emerging Talent and Designers to Watch

Paris showcased established houses and a wave of new names. Buyers were attentive to brands that brought fresh storytelling while maintaining commercial potential.

Standouts and why they matter

• August Barron: Pop culture inflected glamour and theatrical showmanship that spoke to younger, fashion-forward customers. Buyers saw clear editorial-to-retail pull.
• Matières Fécales: Bold, politically informed work that carries a personal narrative. Buyers appreciated the brand’s conviction and potential for cult fascination.
• Julie Kegels: Consistent concept-to-product clarity; pieces felt radical but precise — strong potential for editorial attention and curated retail placement.
• Oscar Ouyang: Initially knitted roots; evolved into a more complete range that buyers now deem mature enough to sell.
• Alexandra Golovanoff: Lauded for exceptional cashmere and Parisian wardrobe sensibility that can translate day-to-night.
• Jean Paul Gaultier under Duran Lantink: A reinvigorated heritage house with identifiable codes presented in a refreshed way.
• Steve O Smith, Yoshita 1967, Conner Ives, Salma Osman, Arakii: Names flagged by multiple buyers for their emerging potential across categories.

How retailers will incubate emerging brands

• Small-batch launches and capsule drops: minimize inventory risk while testing customer response.
• Shop-in-shop or curated editorial features to educate customers about brand narratives.
• Strategic placement with complementary legacy pieces to help buyers visualize integration.

Commercial Implications for Designers and Brands

The season sent a clear message to brand teams: identity and desirability matter more than ever. That means creative focus must align with commercial strategy.

What buyers want from brands

• Clear DNA: buyers invested in brands with a recognisable voice and consistent storytelling across product.
• Sell-through evidence: pre-existing customer demand or data that demonstrates product movement reduces buying risk.
• Versatility: pieces that can live across occasions and seasons perform better.
• Quality and detail: artisanal touches, elevated materials and considered finishing justify higher price points and support luxury positioning.

Design-production-readiness Brands that can present a runway story while ensuring several translatable SKUs (separates, accessories) will find more doors open. Buyers praised houses that show theatricality complemented by merchandise solutions that retail teams can immediately use.

Pricing strategies

• Brands able to provide tiered pricing and product differentiation (core vs. statement) are more attractive to retailers managing diverse customer profiles.
• Accessories and small leather goods offer an efficient path to reach aspirational customers who may not yet buy into higher-ticket ready-to-wear.

How Consumers Will Shop the Season: personalization over uniformity

Multiple buyers used the phrase “collector’s wardrobe” to describe the consumer approach they anticipate: shoppers will assemble wardrobes from striking individual pieces rather than buying into a single total look.

Tactics that resonate with customers

• Buy-now, style-later: invest in signature items — a standout skirt, a unique necklace — that can be introduced into an existing wardrobe.
• Personalization and mix-and-match: customers seek combinations that feel personal. Retail assortments that encourage customization (belts on dresses, layered necklaces) will convert.
• Smaller-ticket trial purchases: scarves, belts and jewelry allow customers to test trends without committing to large purchases.

Marketing that helps

• Styling content that shows versatility — three ways to wear the same skirt, or how a necklace transforms an outfit — lowers purchase hesitation.
• Shoppable storytelling: editorials and short films that place product in everyday scenarios support the idea that couture techniques can be practical.

Regional and demographic differences

• Younger shoppers may prioritize theatrical or statement pieces; older clients will prefer wearable translations with clear investment value.
• Markets with established couture appetites will still buy eveningwear; more pragmatic markets will prioritize separates that work across seasons.

Long-term Signals: is quiet luxury over?

Paris suggested a shift rather than a hard reversal. Quiet luxury — the pared-back, logo-minimal aesthetic that dominated recent seasons — is not dead, but it is less dominant. Buyers signaled preference for emotion, color and personality. That said, pieces that deliver both restraint and a point of view (e.g., a classic silhouette in a bold color or with artisanal detail) continue to hold strong commercial value.

How brands reconcile both

• Offer a base of quiet-luxury staples while introducing seasonal, expressive capsules.
• Use accessories and limited-edition finishes to inject personality without alienating core customers.
• Communicate craftsmanship and narrative: telling the story behind an embellished skirt or a hand-embroidered top adds perceived value that bridges quiet luxury’s quality standards and the season’s appetite for expression.

Recommending a Merchandising Playbook for SS27

For retailers planning assortments, the following playbook reflects buyer sentiment and commercial logic:

1. Prioritize skirts across silhouettes — stock minis, midis and asymmetric maxis with variance in fabric and finish to hit multiple price points.
2. Increase accessory depth — belts, scarves, jewelry and statement shoes will drive conversion and allow customers to personalize looks.
3. Curate lingerie-inspired pieces as layering items — present bustiers and bandeaux alongside blazers and shirts to broaden appeal.
4. Introduce color stories in-store and online — leverage editorial and display to show how bold hues integrate into wardrobes.
5. Add a measured number of theatrical runway pieces as halo items to generate traffic and media attention, but balance inventory with wearable variants.
6. Pilot emerging brands through capsules and events to test demand without committing to full-year buy-ins.
7. Time deliveries to seasonal selling windows and account for region-specific climate and market habits to avoid overstocks.

FAQ

Q: Will skirts truly dominate next season’s sales? A: Buyers across luxury and contemporary retail agreed skirts will be a core selling category. The demand spans multiple price bands and silhouettes, making skirts a practical, high-visibility way for customers to participate in the season’s femininity. Expect stokings in midi and asymmetrical cuts to be especially prominent.

Q: Are bra tops and sheer lingerie looks a safe wholesale bet? A: Not in their most extreme runway interpretations. Buyers see these as important stylistic cues, but they prefer wearable translations: layered bustiers, bandeaux under blazers, and sheer overlays that maintain functionality. Retailers will likely limit exposure to more polished variants.

Q: Which colors should merchants prioritize? A: Saturated reds, turquoise, saturated blues and yellow were prominent on the runway. Pastels (lilac, lemon) also appeared. Merchants should implement color stories that balance bold pieces with neutral supports to increase cross-sell probability.

Q: How are accessory purchases shaping buying plans? A: Accessories are a strategic focus. Scarves, belts, jewelry and small leather goods allow customers to update looks affordably while offering favorable margins. Retailers see these items as essential to the “collector’s wardrobe” approach and will expand assortments accordingly.

Q: What should emerging designers do to attract buyer attention? A: Emphasize a clear, repeatable brand DNA and product that demonstrates sell-through potential. Show multiple merchandisable SKUs that can be adapted into different stores and provide storytelling that helps buyers place products into consumer lives. Limited capsule launches and shop-in-shop tests help reduce buyer risk.

Q: Did any shows mark a decisive shift in fashion direction? A: Saint Laurent and Chanel stood out for combining spectacle with commercial desirability. Matières Fécales and August Barron signaled the culture shift toward narrative-driven, theatrical presentations that appeal to younger shoppers. Dries Van Noten and Celine illustrated how color and wearable experimentation can coexist.

Q: How will regional differences influence product assortment? A: Markets vary: certain regions will favor eveningwear and indulgent embellishment; others will require adaptable separates suited to everyday life. Retailers will tailor assortments to local weather patterns and customer preferences, particularly for delivery windows extending into different seasons.

Q: Is quiet luxury finished? A: Quiet luxury is evolving. The marketplace now favors options that combine the category's quality and restraint with stronger personality and craft. Brands that balance both will remain commercially strong.

Q: How should retailers present runway-excess pieces to maximize sell-through? A: Offer toned-down variants, demonstrate multiple styling options, and place runway-excess pieces as part of a broader editorial narrative. Use visual merchandising to show how statement pieces integrate with classic wardrobe elements.

Q: What’s the single smartest buy for a retailer this season? A: Invest in a strong range of skirts (across silhouettes) paired with a selection of transformative accessories — belts, necklaces and shoes. That combination addresses discoverability, conversion and the customer desire for personalization.

Q: How will marketing need to shift to support these trends? A: Content should emphasize versatility and personalization: styling guides, shoppable videos and editorial features that demonstrate the same product across multiple lifestyle scenarios. Focus on storytelling that conveys craftsmanship, desirability and everyday usability.

Q: Will the return to femininity last beyond SS27? A: Trends rarely flip on a single season. The current return reflects a broader appetite for expressive dressing and may persist, but its longevity will depend on market adoption and how brands interpret the look into wearable forms. Retailers betting on classic silhouettes infused with seasonal personality will be best positioned.

— End —