Table of Contents

1. Key Highlights:
2. Introduction
3. Why Sloane Street? Positioning for the Right Neighborhood Fit
4. Residential Retail: Designing Stores as Lived Spaces
5. Curating Community: Art, Objects and the Sarah Myerscough Partnership
6. Product Strategy: Dresses, Denim and the Rise of Accessories
7. Data-Driven Local Assortment: Learning from E-commerce and Cross-Border Shopping
8. Balancing Concession and Stand-Alone: Harrods versus Sloane Street
9. Regional Expansion: Where Ulla Johnson Is Focusing Next
10. The Competitive Landscape: How Independent Labels Win in Global Retail
11. Handcraft as Brand Differentiator: Fragrance, Ceramics and the Human Touch
12. Staffing and Clienteling: Building a Local Team for Long-Term Relationships
13. Risks and Constraints: The Limits of Selective Expansion
14. How the London Flagship Could Shape Future Openings
15. The Broader Retail Context: What Ulla Johnson’s Move Signals for Fashion Retail
16. Real-World Comparisons: Independent Brands That Follow a Similar Path
17. What Customers Can Expect from the Sloane Street Boutique
18. Commercial Implications: Margins, Pricing and Long-Term Brand Value
19. Potential Challenges: Economic Cycles and Changing Consumer Behavior
20. Sustainability and Supply Chain Considerations
21. Measuring Success: KPIs for a Neighborhood Flagship
22. Forecast: What the Sloane Street Opening Might Mean for Ulla Johnson’s Next 3–5 Years
23. What This Means for Customers and the Market
24. FAQ

Key Highlights:

• Ulla Johnson opened its first standalone European store on Sloane Street, London, as a neighborhood-focused flagship designed to complement its Harrods shop-in-shop and test regional expansion strategies.
• The store emphasizes residential retail, handcrafted products, curated art partnerships, and clienteling informed by e-commerce data; the brand is prioritizing growth in Europe, the Gulf, Southeast Asia and Australia while treating China as a secondary market.

Introduction

Ulla Johnson has translated its quietly influential, craft-forward aesthetic into a physical outpost that anchors the brand’s international ambitions. The new stand-alone boutique at 150 Sloane Street is the label’s first retail footprint outside the United States and a laboratory for a community-led retail model. The choice of location, architectural approach, curated merchandise and local staffing reflect a deliberate strategy: build deep relationships with neighborhood clients, showcase handcrafted product narratives, and use experience-driven retail to grow selectively in markets that align with the brand’s scale and values.

This flagship clarifies what Ulla Johnson stands for at a moment when designers and independent luxury brands must choose between rapid global expansion and careful, sustainable growth. The Sloane Street store is both a tactical response to demonstrated customer demand in London and an experiment in how a privately held, mid-size fashion house can expand internationally without diluting its identity.

Why Sloane Street? Positioning for the Right Neighborhood Fit

Selecting a retail site is both tactical and symbolic. Sloane Street sits in Chelsea near Sloane Square, an area known for its concentration of affluent residents, private clubs, and cultural life. The building’s neighbors include established designers and boutiques; the Cadogan Estate’s curation strategy seeks to blend legacy labels with fresh names to maintain the neighborhood’s luxury appeal while renewing its retail offer.

Thibaut Perrin-Faivre, Ulla Johnson’s CEO, framed the choice as data-backed and community-focused. London ranks as the brand’s third-most important city globally behind New York and Los Angeles; placing a full store in Chelsea gives the label proximity to an existing customer base that already frequents the brand while offering the potential to cultivate new, local relationships. The store’s proximity to high-profile social programming in London—garden parties, Ascot, weddings and seasonally driven events—also makes it a logical site for a brand whose core product offering includes dresses and event-appropriate ready-to-wear.

Sloane Street serves two strategic needs. First, it operates as a neighborhood boutique where regular clients can build sustained relationships with store staff—what Perrin-Faivre called “client advisers” embedded in the community. Second, it complements Ulla Johnson’s Harrods concession, which attracts tourists and regional shoppers, particularly from the Middle East, without duplicating that audience. This dual approach—concession for volume and a stand-alone for local depth—exemplifies a hybrid retail strategy increasingly common among contemporary labels balancing global reach with local relevancy.

Residential Retail: Designing Stores as Lived Spaces

Ulla Johnson’s retail language favors a “residential” approach rather than a traditional boutique template. That aesthetic has guided previous U.S. locations—a townhouse in Amagansett, a plant-filled Los Angeles address—and shaped the Sloane Street interior created with architect Giuseppe Porcelli. The design ethos favors warm materials, human-scale displays, and layered vignettes that resemble a lived-in apartment more than a showroom. Merchandising follows suit: product is curated and rotated in a way that encourages discovery rather than overwhelming volume.

Residential retail helps achieve three commercial aims:

• It supports storytelling. Garments and accessories sit among objects and artworks that contextualize the brand’s aesthetic, reinforcing craft and provenance.
• It drives relationship retail. When the environment feels domestic and welcoming, store staff can build emotional connections with regular customers, making clienteling more natural and durable.
• It differentiates the brand. Amidst polished flagship stores on prime luxury avenues that emphasize spectacle, a residential boutique signals authenticity and craft.

Design choices reflect product priorities. The brand’s recent launches—fragrances with ceramic, handmade caps and candles in artisanal vessels—dovetail with a store environment that showcases materiality and handcraft. Customers encounter the same artisanal sensibility in the architecture, the art program and the curated selection of objects for sale.

Curating Community: Art, Objects and the Sarah Myerscough Partnership

Ulla Johnson introduced a partnership with the Sarah Myerscough Gallery in Mayfair to rotate contemporary craft works in the Sloane Street boutique. This collaboration brings ceramics, carved woods and textile pieces into a retail context where they stand alongside the designer’s personal collection. Items on opening included a ceramic vase by Aneta Regel, wooden vessels by Marc Ricourt and a straw-and-threadwork sculpture by Arko.

The gallery tie-in serves multiple functions: it underscores the brand’s commitment to material-led work, creates a platform for craftspeople, and offers customers additional points of connection beyond fashion. Displaying small-run art pieces alongside collections elevates the boutique from point-of-sale to cultural node. It also concretely communicates the brand’s positioning: human hands, not machines, remain central to product expression.

Other brands have experimented with similar cultural partnerships—pop-up galleries, artist-in-residence programs and collaborative commissions—but Ulla Johnson’s approach is purposeful rather than percussive. The gallery selection aligns with the label’s handcrafted narratives and gives customers tangible ways to engage with materiality, a message reinforced across product categories.

Product Strategy: Dresses, Denim and the Rise of Accessories

Merchandising in the Sloane Street boutique centers on Ulla Johnson’s most emblematic pieces: dresses, silk gowns and runway looks. Dresses remain the brand’s core category; they define silhouette, craftsmanship and the romantic sensibility that draws a loyal customer base. According to Perrin-Faivre, silk gowns and runway pieces outpace the broader dress offer, signaling strong demand for elevated, statement items intended for social occasions.

Denim, launched by the brand four years earlier as a more casual offering, has become a fashion-forward complement to the dress program. Its presence indicates a maturing brand strategy: expand into everyday categories without losing the signature romanticism that differentiates Ulla Johnson.

Accessories represent the fastest-growing category. Handbags such as the Charlotte, Lily, Paloma and raffia styles have gained traction. Accessories provide margin diversification and broaden touchpoints for customers who might not purchase ready-to-wear every season but seek a brand entry point via bags or smaller accessories. Given the brand’s artisanal emphasis, accessories also offer a canvas for material experimentation—woven raffia, hand-stitched leathers, and artisanal finishes that reflect the brand’s values.

This category mix—eventwear, fashion-forward denim and growing accessories—supports an omnichannel strategy. It allows the brand to allocate inventory across product types that appeal to both tourists (who may favor eventwear) and local clients (who buy repeatable, seasonless pieces and accessories).

Data-Driven Local Assortment: Learning from E-commerce and Cross-Border Shopping

The London assortment was curated using e-commerce insights and analysis of cross-border shopping patterns. Perrin-Faivre described a clear overlap between customers in London and those shopping at Ulla Johnson’s New York and Los Angeles stores. Many London clients already purchase during travel or from U.S. retail doors, and their shopping patterns—frequent visits, consignment behavior and appetite for event dressing—provided the brand with actionable signals.

E-commerce data allowed the brand to segment demand by geography and product. When customers in a particular ZIP code or city repeatedly purchase certain categories, retailers can test a tailored selection in bricks-and-mortar. That lowered the risk of launching a full-priced retail location in a new market. The result is a curated store that anticipates local demand patterns while remaining a deliberate brand statement.

Clienteling amplifies that precision. Store teams in London are positioned to reinforce relationships with high-frequency shoppers, encouraging repeat visits, exchanges and private appointments. That kind of one-to-one service is harder to replicate at scale in tourist-driven concessions, which further justifies maintaining both a Harrods concession and a neighborhood boutique.

Balancing Concession and Stand-Alone: Harrods versus Sloane Street

The Harrods shop-in-shop, opened in June 2025, remains an important volume driver for Ulla Johnson. Harrods attracts international visitors and regional shoppers, particularly from the Middle East, and the department store curates brands according to its tourist clientele. A concession in Harrods provides high footfall and brand exposure, often yielding sales velocity and scale.

The Sloane Street boutique serves a different purpose. It is about building a neighborhood brand identity and a local repeat customer base. The stand-alone format allows full control over the brand environment, team composition and long-term customer engagement.

This blended approach—leveraging volume from a major department store while cultivating local depth through an owned store—offers a blueprint for independent brands that lack the capital scale of global luxury houses. It permits targeted investment in markets that demonstrate both tourist and resident demand, optimizing spend while maintaining brand integrity.

Regional Expansion: Where Ulla Johnson Is Focusing Next

Ulla Johnson’s global expansion remains targeted and conservative. Europe is being tested through outposts and concessions, including a presence at Galeries Lafayette in Paris and plans for Galeries Lafayette in Indonesia. The brand is tracking opportunities across Southeast Asia—Thailand, Indonesia—and Australia. In the Gulf, partnerships already exist with Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdale’s, and standalone stores are under consideration.

This measured approach recognizes the practical realities of scaling a privately owned company. Markets with less pressure from dominant luxury conglomerates offer better opportunities for sustainable growth. The Gulf and Southeast Asia present affluent customer bases with strong interest in Western designer labels; these regions can deliver profitable revenues without the intense capital competition present in China.

China remains a strategic market for most global fashion brands, but Ulla Johnson has deprioritized immediate expansion there. The Chinese market is highly competitive, with major luxury groups allocating large budgets for retail and marketing. For a smaller, privately held label, entering China carries higher commercial risk and demands substantial investment to build brand awareness and distribution. The company’s leadership prefers to find “countries with less economic pressure” where the brand’s craft-focused differentiation and curated approach can be more effectively scaled.

The Competitive Landscape: How Independent Labels Win in Global Retail

Luxury conglomerates and large heritage houses operate on a different scale than independent brands. Their capital, wholesale networks and marketing budgets make it difficult for emergent labels to replicate the same scale quickly. Independent brands survive and grow by leveraging differentiation: product distinctiveness, community engagement, agile retail formats and careful market selection.

Ulla Johnson’s strategy illustrates several principles that independent brands can follow:

• Focused geography: Prioritize cities with existing customer concentrations and cultural alignment.
• Mixed retail models: Use concessions and wholesale for reach, owned stores for brand control and community building.
• Product storytelling: Emphasize craft, materiality and human-centric production to create emotional value.
• Data-informed curation: Use e-commerce metrics to refine assortments and reduce guesswork.
• Cultural partnerships: Collaborate with galleries and craftspeople to embed the brand within local cultural ecosystems.

These tactics allow smaller houses to compete not by replicating the mass strategies of big groups but by creating depth in select markets. Depth builds loyalty and reduces reliance on scale-driven promotional activity, protecting margins and brand equity.

Handcraft as Brand Differentiator: Fragrance, Ceramics and the Human Touch

Ulla Johnson’s fragrance launch illustrates how product design reinforces brand values. The fragrance bottles and candle vessels are deliberately handcrafted: ceramic caps made by artisans, hand-finished vessels, and limited-production elements. These details are expensive relative to mass-produced alternatives, but they imbue product with stories that justify premium pricing and cultivate repeat buyers who value originality.

Handcraft serves multiple purposes beyond aesthetics. It:

• Signals authenticity in a market crowded with fast-fashion iterations.
• Provides tangible evidence that the brand invests in human labor and artisanal expertise.
• Enables collaboration with makers, which strengthens supply chains and offers marketing narratives that resonate with conscious consumers.

The combination of apparel and slow-crafted lifestyle products creates a more robust brand ecosystem. Customers who buy a fragrance because of its handmade cap are more likely to view garments as similarly considered objects, reinforcing lifetime value and cross-category purchasing.

Staffing and Clienteling: Building a Local Team for Long-Term Relationships

Perrin-Faivre emphasized building a store team embedded in the local community. The role of store director and client advisers extends beyond transaction-processing; they act as cultural ambassadors and relationship managers. For a brand selling eventwear and high-consideration items, trust and familiarity matter. Clients often return to the same adviser for private fittings, styling advice and pre-release access.

The staffing model also supports omnichannel behavior. Advisers can act as remote consultants for clients who travel frequently, arranging shipments or setting aside pieces for multiple residences. This kind of personal service strengthens loyalty and increases lifetime customer value.

Embedding staff in the neighborhood also has retention benefits. Advisers who live and socialize locally are better positioned to understand client needs, attend local events, and create community activations that feel organic rather than marketing-driven.

Risks and Constraints: The Limits of Selective Expansion

A community-first, conservative expansion strategy carries trade-offs. Growth will be slower than if Ulla Johnson pursued aggressive global roll-out backed by heavy capital. There is also the risk that selective markets underperform if economic conditions shift or if competing brands accelerate their presence.

Concession-based growth also has dependency risk. Partnerships with department stores like Harrods or Galeries Lafayette are beneficial for exposure but can become limiting if store-level curation changes or corporate merchandisers reduce shelf space in favor of global priorities. Owning retail doors offers control but requires significant investment and operational capacity.

Another constraint is supply chain scalability. Handcrafted production is labor-intensive and can limit the speed at which new markets are supplied. Quality must be maintained while meeting demand; missteps can erode brand reputation. Balancing artisanal production with growth will require careful supply chain planning, expanded artisan partnerships and potentially longer lead times.

How the London Flagship Could Shape Future Openings

The Sloane Street store is a template for future openings: small-footprint, residentially designed boutiques staffed by locally embedded teams, carrying curated assortments informed by e-commerce, and anchored by a narrative of handcraft and community. Future markets that resemble London in customer behavior—high event density, international travel patterns and affluent local clientele—are prime candidates for replication.

The model scales not by increasing store quantity quickly but by refining store economics and local resonance. For example, opening a store in a city where clients already cross-shop at U.S. doors reduces customer acquisition costs. Using data to tailor assortments lowers inventory risk. Partnering with local galleries and makers creates cultural footholds without heavy marketing spend.

Replication will require selectivity. Markets include Australian cities with active event seasons, Gulf capitals with high purchasing power and Southeast Asian hubs with emerging tastes for artisanal Western design. Each opening will be a test case—similar in spirit to Sloane Street—assessing product-market fit and operational readiness before committing to further expansion.

The Broader Retail Context: What Ulla Johnson’s Move Signals for Fashion Retail

Ulla Johnson’s step into London signals a broader recalibration among independent labels. Instead of chasing rapid global storefront proliferation, many boutique brands now choose to grow deliberately where brand identity can be preserved and client relationships deepened. The approach contrasts with the post-2008 era of aggressive global expansion and mirrors a recent emphasis on authenticity, craft and community.

This recalibration matters for the retail ecosystem. Neighborhood flagships anchored by cultural programming and material storytelling create a healthier retail mix on luxury avenues, offering alternatives to purely spectacle-driven storefronts. They also shift the metrics of success: a store’s value is increasingly measured by client lifetime value, local influence and cultural cachet rather than by immediate square-foot sales alone.

Retail landlords are responding. Curated estate owners like Cadogan prioritize a balanced tenant mix that serves residents and locals, not only tourists. That alignment between landlord curation and brand intent reduces friction and creates an environment where neighborhood boutiques can thrive.

Real-World Comparisons: Independent Brands That Follow a Similar Path

Several contemporary labels have taken related paths—opening carefully chosen stand-alone stores after establishing a presence through wholesale and concessions. These brands prioritize experience, curated assortments and local staffing. The shared lesson is that sustainable growth often depends on consistent product expression and a retail environment that reflects brand values.

While brands differ in aesthetic, the structural playbook—test via concessions, learn from e-commerce data, open a residential boutique, then scale selectively—has proven effective for independent houses seeking both profitability and cultural relevance.

What Customers Can Expect from the Sloane Street Boutique

Shoppers visiting the Sloane Street boutique will find the fall 2026 collection of ready-to-wear and accessories displayed in a warm, residential setting. Staff will offer clienteling services and local inventory will emphasize eventwear, silk gowns and signature accessories. Limited-edition art and craft objects from Sarah Myerscough Gallery will rotate through the space, providing additional reasons to visit beyond seasonal drops.

For international visitors who prefer the convenience of Harrods, the concession remains a high-visibility option. For London-based clients and neighborhood residents, the Sloane Street store will be a place to shop, consult, and attend small-scale cultural activations.

Commercial Implications: Margins, Pricing and Long-Term Brand Value

Ulla Johnson’s approach suggests a willingness to prioritize margin quality and brand equity over sheer scale. Handcrafted elements and limited production runs typically support stronger margins per unit and create scarcity that sustains desirability. The company’s private ownership permits this long-term perspective; without the pressure to hit quarterly revenue targets common to publicly traded groups, decisions can be made with brand preservation in mind.

Pricing must reflect the craftsmanship and experience offered. Customers who value handmade ceramic caps or one-of-a-kind artisanal pieces expect to pay a premium. Maintaining price integrity across markets, however, requires careful coordination with local retail pricing and wholesale partners to avoid erosion of perceived value.

Long-term brand value accrues through cumulative cultural capital—storytelling, craft partnerships, consistent retail expression and loyal high-frequency clients. The Sloane Street flagship functions as a brand-affirmation device, telling a consistent story to both locals and the global press.

Potential Challenges: Economic Cycles and Changing Consumer Behavior

Luxury retail remains sensitive to geopolitical and economic cycles. Currency fluctuations, tourism patterns and shifts in discretionary spending can all affect store performance. A neighborhood-focused store mitigates some tourism exposure risk but remains sensitive to local economic conditions.

Changing consumer behaviors also pose a challenge. The rise of resale, rental and more sustainable consumption models affects demand for high-end new garments. Ulla Johnson’s emphasis on craft and durable design positions the brand well for a market that increasingly values longevity, but the company must remain attentive to secondary-market dynamics and potential partnerships (e.g., resale platforms, rental services) that preserve brand value while accommodating changing preferences.

Sustainability and Supply Chain Considerations

Handcraft practices often align with sustainability narratives—smaller runs, artisanal techniques, and attention to durable materials. However, sourcing artisanal components at scale while maintaining ethical labor practices requires transparent supplier relationships and investment in maker networks.

If the brand chooses to scale handcrafted elements across more markets, it will need robust supply chain governance to ensure quality, timeliness and labor standards. This may include developing partnerships with maker cooperatives, investing in artisan training programs, or selectively assigning certain product families to scalable manufacturing operations that retain artisanal aesthetics.

Sustainability is not merely an ethical choice; it is a commercial differentiation that resonates with many of the brand’s target customers. Communicating responsible sourcing clearly in-store and online will support the brand’s credibility.

Measuring Success: KPIs for a Neighborhood Flagship

The performance of the Sloane Street boutique should be evaluated by metrics beyond immediate sales per square foot. Key performance indicators should include:

• Repeat purchase rate among local clients.
• Frequency of client visits and appointments.
• Average order value for private client sales.
• Conversion rate for cultural programming attendees into purchasers.
• Cross-channel lift—how store presence affects digital engagement and e-commerce sales in the region.
• Margin performance for handcrafted product categories.
• Retention and turnover rates of locally hired staff.

Success is achieved when the store deepens brand loyalty, produces reliable revenue without heavy discounting, and acts as a cultural anchor that drives both local word-of-mouth and press coverage.

Forecast: What the Sloane Street Opening Might Mean for Ulla Johnson’s Next 3–5 Years

If the Sloane Street flagship performs to expectations, Ulla Johnson will likely accelerate selective openings in markets where similar customer profiles exist: affluent cities with event-driven social calendars and a cultural appetite for craft-led design. Expect further concessions and partnerships in Europe, measured standalone stores in the Gulf and Southeast Asia, and potential Australian outposts via wholesale-to-owned-transition strategies.

China will remain on the strategic horizon, but only under circumstances where the brand can secure differentiated, high-return partnerships or where economic pressures and competition are manageable. For now, the company appears content to deepen presence where it holds clear competitive advantages.

The brand’s emphasis on artisanal products, residential retail and clienteling suggests that its expansion will favor quality over quantity—a path that preserves identity and cultivates a loyal global customer base.

What This Means for Customers and the Market

Customers gain a new, accessible Ulla Johnson experience in Chelsea: an intimate store designed for repeat relationships, careful advice and artisan storytelling. For the market, the opening is evidence that carefully curated flagships, backed by data and a clear brand purpose, remain powerful tools for independent labels. Neighborhood-focused retail is not a retreat from ambition; it is a strategic adaptation that balances growth with authenticity.

Ulla Johnson’s Sloane Street boutique will likely encourage other independent brands to re-evaluate aggressive expansion models and consider how residential design, local teams and cultural programming can drive sustainable growth. For shoppers seeking garments with provenance and tactile narrative, the boutique provides a compelling combination of product, place and people.

FAQ

Q: Where is the new Ulla Johnson store located? A: The standalone Ulla Johnson flagship is at 150 Sloane Street in Chelsea, London, near Sloane Square.

Q: How does the Sloane Street store differ from the Harrods concession? A: The Harrods shop-in-shop is a department store concession focused on international tourists and regional visitors; the Sloane Street boutique is an owned store designed as a local community hub with a residential retail approach, tailored assortments and a staff embedded in the neighborhood.

Q: What products will the boutique carry? A: The store carries Ulla Johnson’s ready-to-wear and accessories, starting with the fall 2026 collection. The assortment emphasizes dresses and silk gowns, denim, and the brand’s fastest-growing accessory lines such as the Charlotte, Lily and Paloma bags, alongside artisanal objects from a rotating art program.

Q: Who designed the Sloane Street interior? A: The space was designed in collaboration with Italian architect and designer Giuseppe Porcelli, following Ulla Johnson’s warm, residential retail approach.

Q: What is the partnership with Sarah Myerscough Gallery? A: The gallery provides a rotating selection of contemporary craft and material-led artworks available for purchase within the boutique. Pieces on opening included ceramics and wooden vessels by selected artisans.

Q: How does Ulla Johnson use e-commerce data for its retail strategy? A: E-commerce and cross-border shopping patterns informed the product assortment for the London boutique, helping the brand tailor inventory to local client preferences and reduce inventory risk.

Q: Where will Ulla Johnson expand next? A: The brand is testing markets across Europe via outposts and concessions, has a presence in Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Indonesia, and is tracking opportunities in the Gulf, Southeast Asia and Australia. China remains a secondary priority due to intense competition from major luxury groups.

Q: Why is handcraft important to Ulla Johnson? A: Handcraft anchors the brand’s identity, reinforcing product meaning, human labor and materiality. Examples include fragrance bottles with handmade ceramic caps and candle vessels made by artisans.

Q: How will the boutique serve local clients? A: The store will offer clienteling services with store directors and client advisers embedded in the community, private appointments, and local inventory curated to match event-driven dress codes common in the U.K.

Q: Does the brand plan standalone stores in the Gulf? A: Ulla Johnson already partners with Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdale’s in the Gulf and is considering standalone store options based on market demand and partnership opportunities.

Q: What are the commercial risks of this expansion model? A: Risks include slower growth compared with aggressive global roll-out, dependency on retail partners for concession volume, supply chain constraints for handcrafted goods, and sensitivity to local economic cycles.

Q: How will Ulla Johnson measure the success of the Sloane Street store? A: Metrics include repeat purchase rates, client visit frequency, conversion of cultural programming attendees, cross-channel sales uplift, margin performance on artisanal products, and local staff retention.

Q: Can customers expect the same products online as in-store? A: The boutique’s assortment is curated for local demand and may differ from the broader online offering; e-commerce insights inform in-store selection, but certain items and artisanal pieces may be exclusive or limited to the physical location.

Q: What does this move mean for independent fashion brands? A: The Sloane Street opening demonstrates a pathway for independent brands to expand globally with intentionality—using concessions for reach, owned stores for community depth, and craft-focused storytelling to maintain brand integrity while scaling selectively.